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Hawx Pest Control
The Complete Homeowner's Guide to Pest-Free Living
Protect Your Home. Protect Your Family.
Table of Contents
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Individual Pest Guides
Expert guidance throughout: Every section includes detailed prevention tips, step-by-step removal guides, product recommendations, and professional Hawx insights.
Introduction
Your home is your sanctuary, a place where your family should feel safe, comfortable, and protected. Unwanted pests can quickly turn that into a source of stress, health risk, and property damage. At Hawx Pest Control, we believe every homeowner deserves pest-free living, and that starts with knowledge.
This guide covers the most common household pests found across the United States, including what attracts them, how to get rid of them, and what risks they pose. When prevention and DIY measures aren't enough, Hawx's licensed professionals deliver fast, effective, and long-lasting results backed by our satisfaction guarantee.
Questions About Your Home? Call (855) 739-0061
Our licensed technicians are standing by to help you identify pest risks specific to your property.
General Pest Prevention
Before we dive into specific pests, here are the universal habits, home conditions, and prevention strategies that apply to virtually every type of infestation. Addressing these fundamentals is the single most effective thing a homeowner can do to stay pest-free year-round.
Why Pests Invade the Home
Pests don't invade homes randomly. They are driven by three basic survival needs: food, water, and shelter. Understanding their motivations is the foundation of effective prevention.
Food availability: Every crumb, spill, open container, or accessible trash bag is a signal to foraging pests. Insects and rodents have evolved highly sensitive chemical receptors that detect food sources from surprising distances.
Water and moisture: Most pests require water to survive. Leaky pipes, damp basements, condensation on pipes, clogged gutters, and standing water in yards all create attractive water sources and breeding environments.
Warmth and shelter: As outdoor temperatures drop in fall and winter, pests seek the warmth of heated structures. Wall voids, crawl spaces, attics, and cluttered storage areas provide ideal harborage.
Safe harborage from predators: Inside a home, pests face fewer natural predators. Dark, undisturbed spaces provide protection while they breed and grow populations rapidly.
Entry points smaller than you think: Mice enter through gaps as small as a dime. Insects exploit microscopic cracks around pipes, windows, and foundations.
Common Mistakes That Attract Pests
Many homeowners unknowingly create ideal conditions for pests. Here are the most common mistakes that make your home a target:
- Leaving dirty dishes in the sink overnight. Even rinsed dishes with food residue attract ants and cockroaches
- Storing firewood directly against the house, which creates a perfect harborage for termites, carpenter ants, and spiders
- Letting mulch pile up thick against the foundation, which retains moisture and provides termite entry points
- Ignoring leaky faucets and pipes. Even a slow drip provides enough water to sustain a large insect colony
- Keeping clutter in basements, attics, and garages because cardboard boxes are nesting goldmines for rodents and silverfish
- Leaving pet food in bowls overnight, which is one of the most reliable ant and cockroach attractants in any home
- Failing to seal gaps around new utility lines, cable, and plumbing penetrations
- Using standard white exterior bulbs that attract insects. These draw moths, flies, and the spiders that hunt them toward entry points
- Forgetting to empty indoor trash cans regularly, particularly those in kitchens and bathrooms
- Not cleaning under appliances like the stove, refrigerator, and dishwasher where grease and crumbs accumulate
- Buying secondhand furniture or mattresses without a thorough inspection, which is one of the leading causes of bed bug introduction
- Over-watering landscaping and allowing water to pool near the foundation
Foods Pests Love
Knowing which foods are most attractive to pests helps you prioritize storage and cleanup. The following are high-risk items in nearly every home:
| Food Type | Why It's Risky & Which Pests It Attracts |
|---|---|
| Sugars & Sweets | Syrups, honey, candy, juice spills, and soda residue are irresistible to ants, flies, and cockroaches |
| Grains & Starches | Flour, cereal, oats, crackers, and bread are commonly targeted by pantry beetles, silverfish, and rodents |
| Proteins & Meats | Uncovered meat, fish, and pet food are highly attractive to flies, cockroaches, and rodents |
| Ripe & Rotting Fruit | Overripe fruit on counters or fallen fruit outdoors serves as a prime breeding site for fruit flies |
| Garbage & Food Scraps | Unsealed trash cans with food residue attract virtually every type of pest |
| Pet Food | Dry kibble left in open bowls is one of the most reliable ant and cockroach attractants in any home |
| Cooking Grease | Grease buildup behind stoves and in exhaust filters is a key cockroach attractant that is often overlooked |
| Seeds & Nuts | Birdseed, sunflower seeds, and nuts stored in bags or open containers are frequently targeted by rodents and pantry pests |
Hawx Tip: Store all dry goods including flour, cereal, grains, sugar, and pet food in hard-sided airtight containers rather than the paper or cardboard packaging they come in.
Where Pests Hide in the Home
Pests are experts at staying hidden. Knowing their favorite hiding spots makes inspections more effective and helps you target prevention efforts where they matter most.
| Location | Hiding Spot | Common Pests Found |
|---|---|---|
| Kitchen | Behind/under appliances (fridge, stove, dishwasher) | Cockroaches, ants, mice, fruit flies |
| Kitchen | Inside cabinets and pantry shelves | Pantry beetles, ants, cockroaches, silverfish |
| Bathroom | Under sinks and around pipe penetrations | Cockroaches, silverfish, ants, mice |
| Bathroom | In moist grout, tile gaps, and wall voids | Silverfish, cockroaches |
| Basement | Along foundation walls, floor joists, and crawl spaces | Termites, carpenter ants, spiders, rodents |
| Basement | In stored boxes, clutter, and old furniture | Rodents, silverfish, brown recluse spiders |
| Attic | In insulation and between rafters | Rodents, squirrels, wasps, bats |
| Garage | Wood piles, storage boxes, and clutter piles | Spiders, carpenter ants, scorpions, rodents |
| Bedroom | Mattress seams, box springs, and headboard joints | Bed bugs |
| Exterior | Under deck boards, in mulch and leaf litter | Termites, carpenter ants, fleas, ticks |
| Exterior | In gutters and roof eaves | Wasps, hornets, mosquitoes (standing water) |
| Yard | Tall grass, brush piles, and wood debris | Ticks, fleas, rodents, snakes |
General Pest Prevention Tips
These prevention practices apply broadly and form the backbone of any effective pest management strategy. Think of them as your year-round pest defense checklist:
✓ Seal entry points
Caulk all gaps around pipes, windows, doors, and the foundation. Use steel wool in larger gaps before caulking.
✓ Fix all moisture issues
Repair leaky pipes, fix condensation problems, and ensure gutters drain water away from the foundation.
✓ Install door sweeps & screens
Ensure all exterior doors have tight-fitting sweeps. Keep screens in good repair on all windows and vents.
✓ Clean regularly & thoroughly
Sweep under appliances, wipe counters daily, and don't let grease build up on stovetops or in exhaust filters.
✓ Manage outdoor lighting
Replace standard white bulbs near entrances with yellow sodium vapor or LED lights that attract fewer insects.
✓ Maintain your yard
Mow regularly, trim shrubs away from the structure, and clear leaf litter and standing water promptly.
✓ Inspect deliveries & packages
Cardboard boxes and packaging can harbor cockroaches and their eggs. Break down and remove boxes immediately.
✓ Travel smart
After hotel stays, inspect and heat-dry all luggage and clothing before bringing them into your home.
✓ Schedule professional inspections
Annual inspections by a licensed pest professional catch infestations early, before they become expensive problems.
✓ Act fast at first signs
A few ants, one cockroach, or a mouse dropping is a warning sign. Address it immediately because pests multiply rapidly.
The Hawx Philosophy: The most effective pest control is a partnership between homeowner habits and professional treatment. Our technicians handle what you can't, but the daily habits in this section are just as important. Together, they create a home that pests simply don't want to be in.
Don't wait until pests become a problem. Schedule your free inspection today and protect your home year-round.
📞 Call (855) 739-0061Bug Specific Pest Protection
The following sections provide detailed, pest-specific information for every common household pest found across the United States. Each section covers what attracts the pest, where it's most prevalent, when it's most active, how to eliminate it, and the risks it poses to your home and family.
Ants
📍
Most Prevalent
Nationwide — all 50 states
📆
Peak Season
Spring through fall; fire ants year-round in southern states
What Attracts Them
- ▸Sweet, sugary foods and spills (syrup, candy, juice)
- ▸Greasy or protein-rich foods left on counters
- ▸Standing water and moisture-damaged or rotting wood
- ▸Crumbs, unsealed food containers, and pet food bowls
- ▸Cracks in foundations, gaps around pipes and windows
Step-by-Step Removal Guide
🛡️Protective Gear & Products Needed
| Item | Purpose | Est. Cost |
|---|---|---|
| 🛡️ Protective Gear | ||
| Closed-toe shoes | Sturdy shoes to protect feet from fire ant stings during mound treatments | — |
| Long pants | Full-length pants tucked into socks to prevent ant access to skin | — |
| Nitrile gloves | Disposable gloves for applying bait and handling products | $8–$15 (box of 100) |
| 🧴 Products & Tools Needed | ||
| Ant bait gel | Most effective for colony elimination — workers carry toxicant back to the queen | $8–$20 |
| Indoor bait stations | Pre-filled stations placed near entry points and behind appliances | $5–$12 |
| Granular outdoor perimeter bait | Broadcast around exterior for large yard colonies | $5–$12 |
| Residual liquid spray | Applied as a 3-foot exterior perimeter band around doors, windows, and foundations | $10–$25 |
| Pest Control Vacuum | Vacuum specific to pest control that safely and effectively removes pests | $30–$500 |
| Estimated Total | Combined cost of all protective gear and treatment products listed above | $171 – $592 |
📋 Removal Treatment
- ▸Use a pest control specific vacuum (not a household vacuum) to clean up any visible ant clusters in window sills, baseboards, or around appliances, then immediately empty the vacuum bag outside
- ▸For live ant mounds outdoors, drench mounds with an approved insecticide mixed with water, pouring slowly to saturate the colony chambers. Always follow proper PPE and product labels for details/safety.
- ▸For fire ant mounds, broadcast granular bait in a 3-foot ring around (not on top of) the mound, because direct disturbance causes the colony to relocate before the bait works
- ▸After removal, place bait gel along the trails to eliminate the colony at the source. Workers will carry the bait back to the queen
🏠 Sealing Entry Points
- ▸Caulk all gaps around windows, doors, plumbing, and electrical penetrations with silicone caulk
- ▸Apply weatherstripping to all exterior doors because even a thin gap provides a highway for ants
- ▸Seal the gap where siding meets the foundation
- ▸Trim tree branches and shrubs that touch the structure because they act as direct highways for ants into the home
Risks & Dangers
- ▸Fire ants deliver painful, venom-filled stings that can trigger severe allergic reactions
- ▸Carpenter ants tunnel through wood causing structural damage over time
- ▸All ant species contaminate food when they forage through kitchens
- ▸Large infestations are difficult to eradicate without professional treatment
Hawx Tip: A single ant colony can contain millions of workers. Treating just the visible ants addresses less than 10% of the problem — bait that workers carry back to the queen is far more effective.
Spiders
📍
Most Prevalent
All 50 states — black widow & brown recluse in South/Midwest
📆
Peak Season
Late Summer & Fall (most visible); active year-round indoors
What Attracts Them
- ▸Abundant insects, since spiders always follow their prey indoors
- ▸Bright outdoor lights that attract the insects spiders eat
- ▸Undisturbed corners, wall voids, and rarely-accessed spaces
- ▸Cluttered garages, basements, attics, and storage areas
- ▸Warmth and shelter as temperatures drop in autumn
Step-by-Step Removal Guide
🛡️Protective Gear & Products Needed
| Item | Purpose | Est. Cost |
|---|---|---|
| 🛡️ Protective Gear | ||
| Work gloves | Thick fabric or leather gloves for handling storage boxes, wood piles, or clutter in spider-prone areas | — |
| Long-sleeve shirt | Protects arms when reaching into undisturbed closets, attics, or storage spaces | — |
| Flashlight or headlamp | Essential for inspecting dark corners, under furniture, and inside storage before reaching in | $10–$30 |
| 🧴 Products & Tools Needed | ||
| Residual spray | Applied along perimeter, garage corners, and interior harborage zones | $10–$25 |
| Sticky glue traps | Placed along walls for monitoring and capture of ground-dwelling spiders | $5–$12 |
| Pest Control Vacuum with hose attachment | For safe removal of live spiders, webs, and egg sacs | $30–$500 (if needed) |
| Estimated Total | Combined cost of all protective gear and treatment products listed above | $55 – $667 |
📋 Removal Treatment
- ▸Remove and dispose of all visible webs using a pest control vacuum or a long-handled web duster. Webs left in place signal to other spiders that the location is suitable for re-habitation
- ▸Egg sacs, the small silky white pouches attached to webs or surfaces, must be vacuumed and immediately disposed of outside. Each sac can contain more than 200 eggs
- ▸After vacuuming, seal and dispose of the bag outdoors in a sealed trash container immediately
- ▸Do not attempt to handle venomous spiders with bare hands. Contact Hawx for professional identification and targeted treatment of dangerous species
🏠 Sealing Entry Points
- ▸Seal all cracks in the foundation and gaps around pipe and wire penetrations with silicone caulk
- ▸Replace or repair torn window and door screens
- ▸Install tight-fitting door sweeps on all exterior doors
- ▸Seal gaps around garage doors with weatherstripping
- ▸Remove wood piles, rock piles, and dense debris from the immediate perimeter of the home
Risks & Dangers
- ▸Most spiders are harmless and help control other insects
- ▸Black widow venom attacks the nervous system and causes intense pain, muscle cramps, and potentially life-threatening reactions
- ▸Brown recluse bites can cause necrotic skin lesions requiring medical care
- ▸Always seek medical attention for unidentified bites with swelling, pain, or spreading redness
Hawx Tip: Spiders rarely bite unless threatened. Most indoor spiders actually protect your home by feeding on flies, mosquitoes, and other pests.
Bed Bugs
📍
Most Prevalent
All 50 states — most common in dense urban areas & hotels
📆
Peak Season
Year-round — no seasonal pattern; travel seasons spike infestations
What Attracts Them
- ▸Body heat and carbon dioxide from sleeping humans
- ▸The scent of human blood, which is their only food source
- ▸Mattress seams, box springs, bed frames, and headboards
- ▸Luggage, secondhand furniture, and used clothing
- ▸Apartment buildings, hotels, dorms, and high-turnover facilities
Step-by-Step Removal Guide
🛡️Protective Gear & Products Needed
| Item | Purpose | Est. Cost |
|---|---|---|
| 🛡️ Protective Gear | ||
| Disposable nitrile gloves | For handling infested mattresses, bedding, or furniture during inspection and cleanup | $8–$15 (box of 100) |
| Disposable coverall or old clothing | Worn during thorough inspections of heavily infested rooms to avoid transferring bugs | — |
| Heavy-duty plastic bags | For sealing infested bedding and clothing before carrying through the home | $5–$12 (pack of 25) |
| 🧴 Products & Tools Needed | ||
| Bed bug mattress & box spring encasements | Permanently encase all mattresses and box springs to trap and starve remaining bugs | $20–$60 per set |
| Steam cleaner (175°F+) | Kills all life stages on contact on mattresses, furniture seams, and baseboards | $50–$200 |
| Bed bug residual spray | Applied to seams, frames, headboards, and baseboards | $15–$35 |
| Bed bug interceptor cups (4-pack) | Installed under all bed legs to detect and trap moving bugs | $10–$20 |
| Pest Control Vacuum | Vacuum specific to pest control that safely and effectively removes pests | $100–$500 |
| Professional heat treatment | Required for full elimination — contact Hawx for pricing | Contact Hawx |
| Estimated Total | Combined cost of all protective gear and treatment products listed above | $208 – $842 + Hawx service |
📋 Removal Treatment
- ▸Strip all bedding and linens immediately and bag them in sealed plastic before carrying through the home. This avoids spreading bugs to other rooms
- ▸Wash all bedding, clothing, and fabric items on the hottest wash setting and dry on high heat (120°F+) for a minimum of 30 minutes. Heat kills all life stages including eggs
- ▸Use a stiff brush to scrub mattress seams, tufts, and fabric folds to dislodge eggs before vacuuming with a certified pest control vacuum
- ▸Use a pest control vacuum over the mattress, box spring, bed frame, headboard, and all surrounding furniture thoroughly. Pay special attention to seams, folds, and cracks
- ▸Use a steam cleaner at 175°F or higher on all mattress seams, box spring edges, upholstered furniture seams, and baseboards. Steam penetrates fabric and kills bugs and eggs on contact
- ▸Bed bugs cannot be fully eliminated with DIY methods alone. Contact Hawx for professional heat treatment or multi-application chemical protocols that reach all hidden life stages
🏠 Sealing Entry Points
- ▸Bed bugs do not enter from outdoors, so the focus should be on preventing re-introduction rather than structural exclusion
- ▸Inspect all luggage carefully after travel and heat-dry clothing before putting it away
- ▸Never bring secondhand furniture or mattresses indoors without a thorough inspection
- ▸In multi-family buildings, seal wall cracks and outlet covers to limit movement between units
Risks & Dangers
- ▸Bites cause red, intensely itchy welts and scratching can lead to secondary skin infections
- ▸Heavy infestations cause significant sleep disturbance, anxiety, and psychological distress
- ▸Severe infestations in rare cases linked to anemia
- ▸Not known to transmit diseases, but extremely difficult to eliminate without professional help
Hawx Tip: Bed bugs can survive up to 12 months without feeding and are resistant to many common insecticides. DIY treatments frequently miss eggs and hidden adults — professional multi-visit protocols are the gold standard.
Bees
📍
Most Prevalent
All 50 states — Africanized bees in TX, AZ, NM, CA, FL
📆
Peak Season
Spring through early Fall — swarm most common in Spring
What Attracts Them
- ▸Flowering plants that provide nectar and pollen
- ▸Sweet foods and beverages left outdoors
- ▸Sheltered nesting sites: wall voids, hollow trees, attic spaces, ground
- ▸Bright floral colors and fragrances from lotions and perfumes
- ▸Unpainted or weathered wood (carpenter bees specifically)
Step-by-Step Removal Guide
🛡️Protective Gear & Products Needed
| Item | Purpose | Est. Cost |
|---|---|---|
| 🛡️ Protective Gear | ||
| Beekeeping veil and hat | Protects face and neck from stings during any bee nest approach or carpenter bee treatment | $10–$30 |
| Thick long-sleeved shirt and pants | Heavy fabric reduces sting penetration when working near bee activity | — |
| Leather gloves | Thick leather provides better sting protection than nitrile for bee work | — |
| Closed-toe shoes with high socks | Prevents bees from accessing feet and ankles during outdoor treatment | — |
| 🧴 Products & Tools Needed | ||
| Hand duster | Precision tool for injecting dust into gallery openings | $10–$20 |
| Professional hive removal (Hawx) | Required for all active honeybee or large wasp colonies | Contact Hawx |
| Estimated Total | Combined cost of all protective gear and treatment products listed above | $20 – $50 + Hawx service |
📋 Removal Treatment
- ▸For carpenter bees, refer to our "Other Wood Destroying Insects" section
- ▸Never attempt to remove an active bee nest or swarm without professional protective equipment. Disturbing a colony can trigger a mass defensive sting response
- ▸For a swarm resting temporarily on a branch or surface that has not yet nested, contact a local beekeeper first. Swarms are generally gentle and can often be relocated live
- ▸For honeybee colonies established inside walls or structures, always contact Hawx or a licensed beekeeper. Improper removal without extracting the honeycomb causes the comb to melt, attracting new pests and creating moisture damage
- ▸Do not use fire, water, or spray foam to attempt colony removal. These methods are both dangerous and ineffective
🏠 Sealing Entry Points
- ▸Fill all existing gallery holes with wood filler and repaint immediately after treatment
- ▸Install metal flashing over exposed wood fascia and structural wood at eaves and decks where feasible
- ▸For wall or structural nests, a professional must remove the colony. Improperly removed hives left in walls will melt, attract other pests, and cause moisture damage
Risks & Dangers
- ▸For most people: temporary pain and swelling from stings
- ▸For allergic individuals, a single sting can trigger anaphylaxis, a life-threatening emergency that requires immediate epinephrine
- ▸Multiple stings from a disturbed colony dangerous even for non-allergic individuals
Hawx Tip: Bees are critical pollinators. Whenever possible, Hawx recommends relocating honeybee colonies with a local beekeeper rather than exterminating them. We only exterminate when relocation isn't possible or when safety requires it.
Cockroaches
📍
Most Prevalent
Nationwide — German cockroach in all states; American cockroach in South
📆
Peak Season
Year-round indoors — outdoor populations peak in Summer
What Attracts Them
- ▸Food scraps, grease, crumbs, pet food, and food residue on surfaces
- ▸Cardboard boxes and paper materials for nesting
- ▸Leaky pipes, standing water, and high-humidity environments
- ▸Warm, dark, humid areas: behind refrigerators, under stoves, inside cabinets
- ▸Structural cracks and gaps that provide shelter and entry points
Step-by-Step Removal Guide
🛡️Protective Gear & Products Needed
| Item | Purpose | Est. Cost |
|---|---|---|
| 🛡️ Protective Gear | ||
| Nitrile gloves | For applying gel bait and cleaning cockroach-contaminated areas | $8–$15 (box of 100) |
| Dust mask (N95) | Essential when cleaning heavily infested areas where cockroach allergens are present in droppings and shed skins | $10–$20 (box of 10) |
| Safety glasses | Recommended when applying insecticide dust through outlet covers or into overhead voids | $5–$15 |
| 🧴 Products & Tools Needed | ||
| Cockroach gel bait | Most effective product — placed in pea-sized dots inside cracks, hinges, and crevices | $10–$25 |
| Insect growth regulator (IGR) spray | Applied to baseboards and wall voids to halt nymph development | $12–$25 |
| Residual liquid spray (perimeter only) | Applied away from bait areas — do not use near bait stations | $10–$25 |
| Sticky monitoring traps | Placed under sinks and behind appliances to assess infestation levels | $5–$12 |
| Pest Control Vacuum | Vacuum specific to pest control that safely and effectively removes pests | $100-$500 |
| Estimated Total | Combined cost of all protective gear and treatment products listed above | $160 – $637 |
📋 Removal Treatment
- ▸Never spray insecticide into the open when cockroaches are visible. Doing so repels them into hiding and makes treatment less effective while pushing them deeper into harborage
- ▸To remove cockroaches safely and immediately: use a pest control vacuum with a hose to capture visible roaches, then seal and dispose of the bag outside
- ▸Place gel bait in small pea-sized dots directly inside cracks and crevices where roaches harbor: under and behind appliances, inside cabinet hinges, and in the corners where walls meet floors
- ▸Apply EPA registered diatomaceous earth into wall voids through outlet covers. Cockroaches crossing the dust pick it up on their legs and carry it back to the harborage, killing other roaches in the process
- ▸Do not combine bait and spray in the same area because spray residue repels foragers from bait stations and dramatically reduces treatment effectiveness
- ▸For heavy infestations: contact Hawx for a professional treatment combining gel bait, IGR, and targeted residual spray in inaccessible harborage zones
🏠 Sealing Entry Points
- ▸Seal all pipe penetrations under sinks and behind appliances with expanding foam or silicone caulk
- ▸Seal gaps around the base of cabinets and where countertops meet walls
- ▸Install door sweeps and repair damaged weatherstripping on all exterior doors
- ▸Seal cracks in walls and floors with caulk throughout the home
- ▸In apartments, seal gaps around shared plumbing walls to prevent cockroaches from migrating between units
Risks & Dangers
- ▸Carry and spread Salmonella, E. coli, and other dangerous bacteria
- ▸Contaminate food preparation surfaces by traveling between sewage and kitchens
- ▸Shed skins and droppings can trigger asthma attacks, particularly in children
- ▸Cockroaches are highly resistant to many treatments, making them one of the hardest pests to eradicate without professional help
- ▸German cockroaches reproduce rapidly and infestations can explode from a few roaches to thousands within weeks
Hawx Tip: A single female German cockroach can produce up to 300 offspring in her lifetime. An infestation can go from a few roaches to thousands in just 60 days. Early professional treatment is critical.
Fleas
📍
Most Prevalent
Nationwide — worst in Southeast, Gulf Coast, and Pacific Coast
📆
Peak Season
Late Spring through early Fall — can persist indoors year-round
What Attracts Them
- ▸Warm-blooded hosts, primarily dogs, cats, and their owners
- ▸Body heat, carbon dioxide, vibration, and movement
- ▸Wildlife and rodents that carry fleas into yards near the home
- ▸Carpets, rugs, upholstered furniture, and pet bedding (egg incubation sites)
- ▸Humid, warm environments that accelerate egg development
Step-by-Step Removal Guide
🛡️Protective Gear & Products Needed
| Item | Purpose | Est. Cost |
|---|---|---|
| 🛡️ Protective Gear | ||
| Long pants tucked into socks | Prevents fleas from jumping onto skin while treating infested yards or crawl spaces | — |
| Closed-toe shoes | Keeps feet protected in heavily infested outdoor areas | — |
| No indoor gear needed | Standard indoor flea spray applications do not require protective equipment beyond normal ventilation precautions | $0 |
| 🧴 Products & Tools Needed | ||
| Vet-approved pet flea treatment | Oral medication, topical spot-on, or flea collar for all pets — applied same day as home treatment | $15–$60 per pet |
| Indoor flea spray (Adulticide and Insect Growth Regulator) | Applied to all carpeted areas, furniture, and baseboards to kill adults and prevent egg hatching | $12–$25 |
| Outdoor yard spray or granules | Applied to lawn, under decks, mulch beds, and shaded areas where fleas develop outdoors | $15–$35 |
| Flea comb | Used on pets to detect and remove live fleas during and after treatment | $5–$12 |
| Pest Control Vacuum | Vacuum specific to pest control that safely and effectively removes pests | $100–$500 |
| Estimated Total | Combined cost of all protective gear and treatment products listed above | $160 – $637 |
📋 Removal Treatment
- ▸Begin removal on all pets and the home simultaneously. Treating one without the other guarantees re-infestation within days
- ▸Use a pest control vacuum on all carpeted surfaces, rugs, upholstered furniture, and along all baseboards thoroughly. Vacuuming stimulates flea pupae to emerge from their protective cocoons, making them vulnerable to insecticide
- ▸Immediately after vacuuming, remove and seal the bag in a plastic bag and dispose of it outside because live fleas, eggs, and larvae remain active inside the bag
- ▸Wash all pet bedding and fabric items in hot water and dry on high heat, which kills all flea life stages present in the bedding
- ▸Spot treat affected areas with an adulticide to kill adult fleas and an IGR (Insect Growth Regulator) to prevent eggs from hatching
- ▸After indoor treatment, apply outdoor yard spray to all lawn areas, mulch beds, under decks, and shaded areas where fleas develop and wildlife rests
- ▸Treat pets the same day using a vet-approved product such as a flea collar, topical spot-on, or oral medication to prevent re-infestation from hatching eggs
🏠 Sealing Entry Points
- ▸Seal all pipe penetrations under sinks and behind appliances with expanding foam or silicone caulk
- ▸Seal gaps and entry points where rodents can enter because rodents are a primary carrier of fleas into structures
- ▸Use perimeter insect treatments to reduce contact with flea-carrying wildlife
- ▸Keep grass mowed short because fleas thrive in tall, shaded grass and cannot survive in dry, sunny open areas
- ▸Wildlife-proof trash cans and compost bins to reduce rodent and wildlife activity near the home
Risks & Dangers
- ▸Bites cause intense itching and repeated scratching can lead to secondary skin infections
- ▸Fleas transmit tapeworms to pets and occasionally to humans
- ▸In large numbers: can cause anemia in young animals and puppies/kittens
- ▸Vector for flea-borne typhus, which still occurs in parts of the U.S.
- ▸Extremely difficult to eradicate without treating pets, home, and yard simultaneously
Hawx Tip: Flea pupae can lie dormant for up to 6 months waiting for a host. A vibration (like you walking into a room) triggers mass emergence. This is why vacant homes can seem to 'explode' with fleas when new occupants move in.
Mosquitoes
📍
Most Prevalent
All 50 states — worst in Southeast, Gulf Coast, and Florida
📆
Peak Season
Late Spring through early Fall — year-round in warm climates
What Attracts Them
- ▸Standing water of any kind, since even a bottle cap holds enough water for mosquito breeding
- ▸Carbon dioxide exhaled by potential hosts
- ▸Dark clothing (absorbs more heat, more visible to mosquitoes)
- ▸Body heat, sweat, and certain body odors
- ▸Floral fragrances, perfumes, and scented lotions
Step-by-Step Removal Guide
🛡️Protective Gear & Products Needed
| Item | Purpose | Est. Cost |
|---|---|---|
| 🛡️ Protective Gear | ||
| Long-sleeve shirt and long pants | Physical barrier to reduce mosquito bites during yard treatment and outdoor activity | — |
| EPA-registered insect repellent | Applied to exposed skin before outdoor activity to repel mosquitoes. DEET 20–30% is most effective. | $8–$15 per bottle |
| Permethrin spray for clothing | Treat clothing and boots before working in mosquito habitat. Effective through multiple washes. | $12–$20 per bottle |
| Respirator mask (P100 or N95) | Recommended when applying concentrated insecticide in enclosed or low-ventilation areas | $15–$35 |
| 🧴 Products & Tools Needed | ||
| Mosquito Mist Applicator | These applicators have the correct pressure and vortex needed. Basic sprayers do not give you the pressure to penetrate dense foliage to get the product where it needs to be. | $150–$1,500 |
| Residual yard spray | Applied to vegetation undersides, shrub edges, and shaded resting areas | $12–$30 |
| Larvicide granules | Applied to drainage areas or ornamental water features that cannot be emptied | $10–$20 |
| Aerosol flying insect spray (indoor) | For individual mosquitoes found indoors | $5–$12 |
| Handheld electric swatter | Effective for eliminating individual indoor mosquitoes without chemicals | $8–$20 |
| Estimated Total | Combined cost of all protective gear and treatment products listed above | $228 – $1,672 |
📋 Removal Treatment
- ▸Mosquitoes cannot be fully eliminated from an outdoor environment, but populations can be dramatically reduced through systematic elimination of breeding sites combined with barrier treatments
- ▸Walk the entire property and physically eliminate every standing water source: dump and scrub bird baths weekly, clear clogged gutters, tip over unused pots, buckets, and tarps
- ▸For water that cannot be removed such as ponds, rain barrels, or drainage features, drop larvicide into the water. They kill mosquito larvae within 24 hours and are safe for fish, pets, and wildlife
- ▸Apply residual barrier spray to the underside of shrubs, tall grass edges, fence lines, and shaded areas where adult mosquitoes rest during the day and night. Spray at dusk when pollinators are less active
- ▸Reapply vegetation spray every 3 to 4 weeks or within 48 hours after heavy rain, since rain dilutes and breaks down the residual product
🏠 Sealing Entry Points
- ▸Install or repair window and door screens with a 16 to 18 mesh rating and inspect for holes and damaged frames every season
- ▸Seal gaps under siding and around utility penetrations where mosquitoes can enter and rest indoors
- ▸Ensure gutters drain freely and are clear of debris that holds standing water
- ▸Level yard depressions that collect rainwater after storms
- ▸Inspect and clean outdoor furniture, toys, and decorative items that collect water after rain
Risks & Dangers
- ▸Mosquitoes are the deadliest animals on Earth due to disease transmission
- ▸Transmit Eastern equine encephalitis, La Crosse encephalitis, and dengue in parts of the U.S.
- ▸Zika virus and chikungunya now risk factors in Southern states
- ▸Bites cause significant discomfort and allergic reactions in sensitive individuals
Hawx Tip: Only female mosquitoes bite — they need blood to develop eggs. A single female can lay up to 300 eggs at a time and requires just a tablespoon of standing water to breed successfully.
Rodents
📍
Most Prevalent
All 50 states — highest populations in urban environments
📆
Peak Season
Year-round — indoors populations spike in Fall & Winter
What Attracts Them
- ▸ Any accessible food: pet food, birdseed, pantry staples, compost
- ▸ Water sources including dripping faucets and condensation
- ▸ Warmth, as rodents actively seek heated structures as outdoor temperatures drop in fall and winter
- ▸ Clutter, insulation, and paper materials for nesting
- ▸ Gaps as small as a dime (mice) or quarter (rats) for entry
Step-by-Step Removal Guide
🛡️Protective Gear & Products Needed
| Item | Purpose | Est. Cost |
|---|---|---|
| 🛡️ Protective Gear | ||
| Nitrile or latex gloves | Mandatory when handling traps, dead rodents, droppings, or contaminated materials | $8–$15 (box of 100) |
| N95 respirator mask | Critical when cleaning rodent-contaminated areas. Prevents inhalation of airborne Hantavirus particles from disturbed droppings. | $10–$20 (box of 10) |
| Safety glasses or goggles | Eye protection when working in attics or crawl spaces with active rodent contamination | $5–$15 |
| Disposable coverall | Worn when working in heavily infested attics or crawl spaces to prevent contamination of clothing | — |
| 🧴 Products & Tools Needed | ||
| Snap traps (multiple) | Most effective and humane option — placed perpendicular to walls along active runways | $5–$15 (pack of 4–6) |
| Live traps | Used for catch-and-release if preferred — release at least 1 mile from the home | $10–$30 |
| Steel wool + copper mesh | Packed into gaps and holes before sealing with caulk or foam | $8–$15 |
| 1/4-inch hardware cloth | Used to cover larger openings such as vents and crawl space access points | $15–$30 |
| Expanding spray foam + silicone caulk | Final sealant layer applied over steel wool to permanently close entry points | $10–$20 |
| Estimated Total | Combined cost of all protective gear and treatment products listed above | $74 – $168 |
📋 Removal Treatment
- ▸Place snap traps perpendicular to walls along active runways. Rodents travel flush against walls, so traps must be positioned with the trigger end touching the wall surface
- ▸Bait snap traps with a small amount of peanut butter, chocolate hazelnut spread, or nesting material like a cotton ball. Use just enough to attract the rodent without allowing easy removal
- ▸Check and reset traps daily. A trap with a dead rodent left for days will attract other pests and reduce overall trapping effectiveness
- ▸To remove a dead rodent, wear gloves and place the rodent and trap in a sealed plastic bag. Double-bag it and dispose of it in an outdoor trash container
- ▸For live traps, release captured rodents at least one mile away from the home
- ▸Continue trapping until zero catches occur for 5 consecutive days, which indicates the active population has been eliminated
- ▸Do NOT use rodenticide bait blocks inside the home. Poisoned rodents typically crawl into wall voids to die, creating serious odor problems that can last for weeks
🏠 Sealing Entry Points
- ▸This is the single most important long-term step because without physical exclusion, populations will always rebound
- ▸Seal all gaps larger than 1/4 inch: pack with steel wool first, then cover with silicone caulk or expanding foam
- ▸Cover larger openings (crawl space vents, soffit gaps) with 1/4-inch hardware cloth screwed securely in place
- ▸Inspect and seal the entire roofline, soffit vents, foundation cracks, pipe penetrations, and garage door gaps
- ▸Install door sweeps on all exterior doors, including the garage
- ▸A professional exclusion assessment from Hawx identifies entry points that homeowners routinely miss
Risks & Dangers
- ▸Contaminate food and surfaces with urine, droppings, and fur
- ▸Carry hantavirus (deer mice), leptospirosis, rat-bite fever, and salmonellosis
- ▸Transport fleas, ticks, and mites that spread additional diseases
- ▸Gnaw through electrical wiring, which is a leading cause of unexplained house fires
- ▸Damage insulation, pipes, structural wood, and personal belongings
Hawx Tip: A mouse can gnaw through PVC pipe, soft aluminum, and even cinder block. The only reliable long-term solution is physical exclusion — sealing every gap in the structure — combined with population reduction.
Seeing signs of an infestation? Hawx professionals can identify the problem and eliminate it fast.
📞 Call (855) 739-0061Scorpions
📍
Most Prevalent
Southwest — AZ, NM, TX, NV, UT, CA primarily
📆
Peak Season
Spring through Fall — active on warm nights, year-round indoors
What Attracts Them
- ▸ Insects, spiders, and other small arthropods as prey
- ▸ Moisture from leaky pipes, dripping faucets, or condensation
- ▸ Shelter from extreme heat, which causes them to move indoors during peak summer temperatures
- ▸ Dark, cool hiding spots: under rocks, bark, debris, shoes, and clothing
- ▸ Cracks in foundations, gaps around windows, doors, and plumbing penetrations
Step-by-Step Removal Guide
🛡️Protective Gear & Products Needed
| Item | Purpose | Est. Cost |
|---|---|---|
| 🛡️ Protective Gear | ||
| Thick leather gloves | Protects hands when moving rocks, wood, boxes, or objects in scorpion-prone areas | — |
| Closed-toe shoes with high socks | Prevents scorpions from stinging feet and ankles during yard work or inspections | — |
| UV black light flashlight | Essential for nighttime scorpion detection. Scorpions glow bright blue-green under UV light. | $10–$30 |
| Long-sleeve shirt | Additional protection when working in storage areas, garages, or around outdoor debris | — |
| 🧴 Products & Tools Needed | ||
| Residual spray | Applied along the exterior perimeter, into cracks, weep holes, and under outdoor objects | $10–$25 |
| Sticky glue traps | Placed along walls in garage, closets, and utility rooms to monitor activity | $5–$12 |
| Long-handled tongs or forceps | Used to safely pick up and relocate or dispose of live scorpions | $8–$20 |
| Estimated Total | Combined cost of all protective gear and treatment products listed above | $33 – $87 |
📋 Removal Treatment
- ▸Use a UV black light flashlight after dark to locate scorpions. They glow bright blue-green and are easy to spot even when motionless
- ▸To remove a live scorpion, use long-handled tongs or forceps to pick it up and drop it into a sealed jar. Never use bare hands or try to pin or smash a scorpion with footwear, as this risks accidental stinging
- ▸Dispose of captured scorpions by sealing them in a jar and placing it in an outdoor trash container. Do not flush them down a drain because some species can survive submersion
- ▸Apply residual insecticide spray along the exterior perimeter at the foundation and directly into all cracks, weep holes, and gaps. Scorpions contact the residual treatment as they travel along walls
- ▸After exterior treatment, conduct interior nighttime UV inspections weekly to track whether populations inside are declining
🏠 Sealing Entry Points
- ▸Seal every gap at the foundation and roofline with silicone caulk because scorpions can flatten their bodies to squeeze through paper-thin cracks
- ▸Install tight-fitting door sweeps on all exterior doors, including the garage door
- ▸Seal all plumbing and utility penetrations thoroughly
- ▸Install weatherstripping on all windows and sliding glass doors
- ▸Remove all debris, rocks, wood piles, and organic material from around the foundation because these are prime scorpion harborage sites
Risks & Dangers
- ▸Contaminate food and surfaces with urine, droppings, and fur
- ▸The Arizona bark scorpion is medically significant. Its venom causes severe pain, muscle spasms, and potentially life-threatening reactions in children and the elderly
- ▸Antivenom is available but must be administered quickly. Seek emergency care immediately after any bark scorpion sting
- ▸Always treat any scorpion sting with medical caution if the species is unknown
Hawx Tip: Scorpions glow bright blue-green under UV (black) light. Hawx technicians use UV flashlights during nighttime inspections to locate and count scorpions — a technique that dramatically improves treatment accuracy.
Silverfish
📍
Most Prevalent
Nationwide — thrive in humid environments anywhere in the U.S.
📆
Peak Season
Year-round indoors — populations expand in warm, humid summers
What Attracts Them
- ▸ Starchy materials: paper, books, wallpaper glue, photos, cardboard
- ▸ Natural fabrics: cotton, linen, silk, and rayon
- ▸ Dried pantry foods: flour, cereal, oats, dried pasta
- ▸ High humidity, as silverfish cannot survive in dry environments
- ▸ Dark, undisturbed spaces: closets, attics, basements, bookshelves
Step-by-Step Removal Guide
🛡️Protective Gear & Products Needed
| Item | Purpose | Est. Cost |
|---|---|---|
| 🛡️ Protective Gear | ||
| Dust mask (N95) | Recommended when applying insecticide dust in attics or wall voids to avoid inhaling particles | $10–$20 (box of 10) |
| Nitrile gloves | For handling insecticide products and dust applications | $8–$15 (box of 100) |
| 🧴 Products & Tools Needed | ||
| Residual spray | Applied into cracks and crevices at baseboards, under sinks, and in closets | $10–$25 |
| Insecticide dust | Injected into wall voids through outlet covers using a hand duster | $15–$30 |
| Dehumidifier | Run in affected areas to maintain indoor humidity below 50% — silverfish cannot survive in dry conditions | $40–$150 |
| Sticky monitoring traps | Placed under sinks, in closets, and in bathrooms to track treatment progress | $5–$12 |
| Pest Control Vacuum | Vacuum specific to pest control that safely and effectively removes pests | $100–$500 |
| Estimated Total | Combined cost of all protective gear and treatment products listed above | $188 – $752 |
📋 Removal Treatment
- ▸Sticky traps placed in closets, under sinks, and in bathrooms are the most practical DIY removal tool. They capture silverfish without chemicals and help monitor infestation levels
- ▸Use a pest control vacuum on all visible silverfish, paying attention to bookshelves, closet floors, and behind stored items
- ▸Apply a EPA approved pesticide like diatomaceous earth in a thin layer along closet baseboards, behind bookshelves, and in areas where activity is highest. Silverfish crossing the powder suffer physical damage to their exoskeleton and dehydrate quickly
- ▸For severe infestations, apply a EPA approved residual insecticide spray directly into cracks and crevices at baseboards, around plumbing under sinks, and behind loose wallpaper or molding
- ▸Reducing humidity is the most effective long-term removal strategy. Run dehumidifiers in affected areas to bring indoor humidity below 50%
🏠 Sealing Entry Points
- ▸Seal all cracks in walls and floors with caulk throughout infested areas
- ▸Seal gaps around pipes under sinks and where plumbing enters walls
- ▸Fix all moisture sources: repair leaks, install bathroom exhaust fans, and run dehumidifiers in damp areas
- ▸Store all books, papers, and clothing in sealed plastic bins because cardboard and open shelving provide ideal harborage for silverfish
- ▸Seal gaps around attic vents and crawl space access points to reduce outdoor entry
Risks & Dangers
- ▸Do not bite or sting and are not a direct health threat to humans
- ▸Cause significant property damage: feed on and stain books, documents, photographs, and wallpaper
- ▸Destroy natural fabric clothing and household textiles
- ▸Contaminate pantry foods including flour, cereal, and dried goods
- ▸Their presence signals an underlying moisture problem that can lead to mold and structural damage
Hawx Tip: Silverfish can survive for up to a year without food. They are ancient insects — virtually unchanged for 400 million years. Their presence in walls and attics is often the first sign of a moisture or insulation problem.
Termites
📍
Most Prevalent
All continental states — worst in Southeast, Gulf Coast, and CA
📆
Peak Season
Year-round inside structures — swarm (visible) in Spring
What Attracts Them
- ▸ Any wood, cellulose, or paper in contact with soil or moisture
- ▸ Wood-to-soil contact at deck posts, siding, and door frames
- ▸ Leaky pipes and poor crawl space ventilation causing moisture buildup
- ▸ Mulch and wood debris piled against the foundation
- ▸ Unpainted or exposed wood on the exterior of the structure
Step-by-Step Removal Guide
🛡️Protective Gear & Products Needed
| Item | Purpose | Est. Cost |
|---|---|---|
| 🛡️ Protective Gear | ||
| Chemical-resistant gloves | Recommended when applying insecticide dust in attics or wall voids to avoid inhaling particles | $15–$40 |
| Safety glasses or goggles | Protects eyes during termiticide application, especially during soil injection | $5–$15 |
| Respirator (P100 or OV/P100 cartridge) | Required when applying liquid termiticide or foam in enclosed or poorly ventilated spaces | $25–$60 |
| Disposable coverall | Full-body protection when applying termiticide in crawl spaces or during extensive treatment | — |
| Note: Professional equipment only | Termite treatments require licensed professional application. Do not attempt DIY termiticide treatment. | Included in Hawx service |
| 🧴 Products & Tools Needed | ||
| Liquid termiticide | Applied via perimeter trench treatment around the entire foundation — professional use only | Included in Hawx service |
| Termite bait stations (Sentricon) | Installed every 10–12 feet around perimeter — workers carry bait to eliminate the colony | Included in Hawx service |
| Termiticide foam | Injected directly into accessible galleries and wall voids | Included in Hawx service |
| Borate wood treatment | Applied to bare wood in crawl spaces and attics as a preventive treatment | $20–$50 (DIY) or Hawx service |
| Whole-structure fumigation (if required) | For widespread drywood termite infestations — requires professional licensing and equipment | Contact Hawx for quote |
| Estimated Total | Combined cost of all protective gear and treatment products listed above | $45 – $115 + Hawx service |
📋 Removal Treatment
- ▸Termite removal cannot be safely or effectively performed as a DIY project. All removal methods require licensed equipment and professional training
- ▸Professional treatments include using a drill to place bait stations in the soil around a home’s perimeter, typically 1-2 feet from the foundation
- ▸To prevent termites, remove wood piles and loose debris against the home and manage moisture issues in, around and under the home
🏠 Sealing Entry Points
- ▸Eliminate all wood-to-soil contact by adding metal standoffs under deck posts and ensuring siding does not touch soil or mulch
- ▸Keep mulch at least 12 inches away from the foundation at all times
- ▸Fix all moisture sources: repair leaks, improve crawl space drainage, and install a vapor barrier under the crawl space
- ▸Seal cracks in the foundation slab and walls
- ▸Maintain adequate crawl space ventilation to keep wood moisture below 19%
- ▸Enroll in a Hawx termite protection plan with annual inspections because catching breaches early prevents re-infestation from becoming costly structural damage
Risks & Dangers
- ▸Cause $5 billion in property damage annually in the U.S., more than fires, floods, and storms combined
- ▸Damage is typically NOT covered by standard homeowner's insurance
- ▸Silently destroy wood from the inside and infestations can go completely undetected for years
- ▸Can compromise the structural integrity of floors, walls, ceilings, and support beams
- ▸Annual professional inspections are essential because early detection saves tens of thousands in repair costs
Hawx Tip: A mature termite colony can consume a full pound of wood per day. By the time visible damage is obvious, the structural harm has often been ongoing for 3–5 years. Annual inspections are the single best investment a homeowner can make.
Termites or Wood-Destroying Insects?
Structural damage costs thousands to repair. Don't wait — get a professional inspection before it's too late.
🚨 Get Immediate Help: (855) 739-0061Ticks
📍
Most Prevalent
Northeast, Mid-Atlantic, Midwest, Southeast, Pacific Coast
📆
Peak Season
Spring through Fall — deer tick nymphs peak in late Spring/early Summer
What Attracts Them
- ▸ Warm-blooded hosts: humans, dogs, deer, and small mammals
- ▸ Tall grass, leaf litter, and brushy wooded edges where they quest for hosts
- ▸ Pets that roam outdoors without tick prevention
- ▸ Properties bordering woods or with active deer populations
- ▸ Bird feeders and wildlife activity that brings tick-carrying animals near the home
Step-by-Step Removal Guide
🛡️Protective Gear & Products Needed
| Item | Purpose | Est. Cost |
|---|---|---|
| 🛡️ Protective Gear | ||
| Long pants tucked into high socks | Prevents ticks from accessing skin on legs and ankles during outdoor activity or yard treatment | — |
| Long-sleeve shirt | Reduces exposed skin surface area in tick-prone areas | — |
| Permethrin-treated clothing or spray | Applied to clothing and boots before entering tick habitat. Kills ticks on contact and lasts through multiple washes. | $12–$20 per bottle |
| EPA-registered repellent | Applied to exposed skin to repel ticks. DEET 20–30% is recommended. | $8–$15 per bottle |
| 🧴 Products & Tools Needed | ||
| Acaricide spray | Applied to all tick habitat in the yard — grass edges, leaf litter, shrub undersides | $12–$30 |
| Tick tubes | Placed along fence lines and rodent runways — mice carry cotton to nests, killing ticks at the source | $15–$30 |
| Yard granular insecticide | Broadcast over lawn perimeter for additional tick population reduction | $15–$25 |
| Estimated Total | Combined cost of all protective gear and treatment products listed above | $67 – $135 |
📋 Removal Treatment
- ▸For yard tick reduction, apply an EPA approved acaricide spray to all tick habitat including tall grass edges, wooded property borders, leaf litter, and the underside of shrubs. Always spray at the leaf level, not just across grass tops
- ▸Place tick tubes filled with EPA approved permethrin-treated cotton along fence lines and near rodent runways. Mice collect the cotton for nesting material and the permethrin kills ticks feeding on them, breaking the tick life cycle at the source
🏠 Sealing Entry Points
- ▸Create a 3-foot-wide wood chip or gravel barrier between the lawn and wooded or brushy areas because ticks rarely cross dry, sunny open barriers
- ▸Keep grass mowed short and remove leaf litter promptly because ticks cannot survive in hot, dry, exposed conditions
- ▸Seal foundation gaps and crawl space access points to reduce rodent entry because rodents are the primary host for nymph ticks
- ▸Conduct full-body tick checks on all family members and pets immediately after outdoor activities, paying close attention to hairlines, ears, armpits, and behind the knees
- ▸Remove attached ticks promptly using fine-tipped tweezers. Grasp as close to the skin surface as possible and pull straight out without twisting
Risks & Dangers
- ▸Responsible for more vector-borne disease in the U.S. than any other arthropod
- ▸Blacklegged tick transmits Lyme disease, anaplasmosis, babesiosis, and Powassan virus
- ▸Lone star tick causes ehrlichiosis and alpha-gal syndrome (red meat allergy)
- ▸American dog tick transmits Rocky Mountain spotted fever, one of the most dangerous tick-borne diseases in the country
- ▸Prompt, complete tick removal within 24–36 hours reduces transmission risk significantly
Hawx Tip: A tick must be attached for 24–36 hours to transmit most pathogens. Check yourself and your pets immediately after outdoor activities and use fine-tipped tweezers to remove ticks — never petroleum jelly, nail polish, or heat.
Wasps & Hornets
📍
Most Prevalent
All 50 states — yellow jackets and paper wasps nationwide
📆
Peak Season
Spring through early Fall — most aggressive in late Summer & Fall
What Attracts Them
- ▸ Protein-rich foods: meat, fish, insects (early summer colony growth phase)
- ▸ Sugary foods and beverages: sodas, fallen fruit, juice (late summer)
- ▸ Fragrances from lotions, perfumes, and sweet drinks
- ▸ Sheltered nesting sites: eaves, overhangs, decks, attics, wall voids, ground
- ▸ Flowering plants that provide nectar resources
Step-by-Step Removal Guide
🛡️Protective Gear & Products Needed
| Item | Purpose | Est. Cost |
|---|---|---|
| 🛡️ Protective Gear | ||
| Full beekeeping veil and hat | Protects the face and neck during nest treatment. The most important piece of protective gear for wasp removal. | $10–$40 |
| Thick long-sleeved shirt and pants | Heavy fabric reduces the chance of stings penetrating to skin. Tuck shirt into pants and pants into socks. | — |
| Heavy leather gloves | Thick leather provides better sting protection than nitrile or fabric gloves for wasp work | — |
| Closed-toe shoes with high socks | Prevents wasps from reaching feet and ankles, especially important for ground nest treatment | — |
| 🧴 Products & Tools Needed | ||
| Wasp & hornet freeze spray | For small, accessible nests — effective from 15 to 20 feet away | $8–$15 |
| Residual insecticide dust | Used for ground nests — poured into entrance at night then covered | $12–$25 |
| Professional pressurized aerosol or foam | For nests in wall voids or inaccessible spaces — professional use only | Contact Hawx |
| Decoy wasp nests | Hung in early spring to deter queens from establishing new colonies | $8–$15 |
| Residual perimeter spray | Applied to vacated nest site after removal to deter scouts from rebuilding | $10–$25 |
| Estimated Total | Combined cost of all protective gear and treatment products listed above | $48 – $170 + Hawx service |
📋 Removal Treatment
- ▸Treat nests at night only. Wasps are inside and less active after dark, and daytime treatment will cause aggressive defensive swarming
- ▸For small, exposed nests that are fist-sized with fewer than 50 wasps, position yourself upwind at maximum safe distance. Aim the freeze spray nozzle directly into the nest entrance and spray for 5 to 10 seconds. Retreat immediately if wasps begin to emerge
- ▸After 24 to 48 hours with no activity visible, knock the nest down using a long pole or broom. Dispose of it in a sealed bag in an outdoor trash container and wear protective gear throughout this step
- ▸For ground nests, slowly pour an approved insecticide concentrate directly down the entrance at night, then cover the opening with a rock or soil. Never block the entrance before treatment, as disturbed wasps will chew a new exit toward occupied areas
- ▸For nests in wall voids, attics, or inaccessible eave spaces, do NOT attempt DIY removal. Contact Hawx for professional treatment using pressurized aerosol or foam injected directly into the void
- ▸After nest removal, spray the vacated site with residual insecticide to deter scout wasps from building a new nest in the same location the following season
🏠 Sealing Entry Points
- ▸Seal all gaps in soffits, eaves, and siding before spring (February–March) when queens search for nesting sites
- ▸Fill all gaps around utility penetrations with silicone caulk
- ▸Install hardware cloth over attic vents and louvers to block nesting access
- ▸Seal openings in decks and wooden structures where ground nests could establish
- ▸Fill abandoned rodent burrows and compact soil in areas where ground nests have occurred previously
- ▸Hang decoy nests at the start of spring because queens recognize occupied territory and will establish their colony elsewhere
Risks & Dangers
- ▸Wasps can sting multiple times because unlike bees, they do not lose their stinger after use
- ▸Severe allergic reactions and anaphylaxis are a real risk for sensitive individuals
- ▸Yellow jackets nest in the ground, making them very easy to accidentally disturb with lawn mowers and other equipment
- ▸Large colonies can mobilize hundreds of defenders when the nest is threatened
- ▸Hornets can sting through standard clothing, which is why professional removal is the only safe option for large colonies
Hawx Tip: Yellow jacket populations peak in late summer and early fall when colonies contain thousands of workers and food competition intensifies. This is when unprovoked stinging incidents are most common — especially near trash cans and outdoor dining areas.
Other Wood Destroying Insects (Carpenter Ants, Carpenter Bees, Powderpost Beetles)
📍
Most Prevalent
Nationwide — specific species vary by region and climate
📆
Peak Season
Most visible in Spring & Summer — active year-round inside structures
What Attracts Them
- ▸ Moist, decaying, or damaged wood of any kind
- ▸ Wood-to-soil contact at foundations, posts, and siding
- ▸ Newly seasoned hardwoods and flooring (powderpost beetles)
- ▸ Sheltered nesting sites: eaves, overhangs, decks, attics, wall voids, ground
- ▸ Structural lumber, beams, and framing with moisture exposure
Step-by-Step Removal Guide
🛡️Protective Gear & Products Needed
| Item | Purpose | Est. Cost |
|---|---|---|
| 🛡️ Protective Gear | ||
| Chemical-resistant gloves | For handling termiticide or borate wood treatment concentrates | $15–$40 |
| Safety glasses or goggles | Eye protection when applying sprays, dusts, or foam in overhead or enclosed areas | $5–$15 |
| N95 or P100 respirator mask | Required when applying products in crawl spaces, attics, or other low-ventilation areas | $10–$35 |
| Disposable coverall | For working in crawl spaces or attics where insecticide application and contamination risk is higher | — |
| 🧴 Products & Tools Needed | ||
| Borate wood treatment | Applied to bare, unfinished wood in crawl spaces, attics, and framing — penetrates and kills wood-boring larvae | $20–$50 |
| Residual insecticide spray or dust | Applied to affected wood surfaces for powderpost beetles and surface-accessible galleries | $10–$30 |
| Carpenter bee gallery kit | Dust injected at dusk, then galleries filled with steel wool, wood filler, and paint after 48 hours | $20–$45 |
| Exterior paint or sealant | Applied to all bare exterior wood to block carpenter bee and beetle entry | $15–$40 |
| Professional fumigation (if required) | For widespread drywood termite or powderpost beetle infestations — licensed professionals only | Contact Hawx |
| Estimated Total | Combined cost of all protective gear and treatment products listed above | $95 – $255 + Hawx service |
📋 Removal Treatment
- ▸Carpenter bees: locate active galleries by tapping and listening for hollow sounds or rustling. Inject insecticide dust through 1/8-inch drilled access holes, then seal the holes with wood filler after treatment
- ▸Carpenter bees: inject approved insecticide directly into gallery holes at dusk using a hand duster. Leave the holes open for 48 hours so returning bees contact the dust, then fill with steel wool, wood filler, and paint
- ▸Powderpost beetles: apply EPA approved residual insecticide spray or a borate treatment to all affected bare wood surfaces. Borates penetrate wood and kill larvae inside over time
- ▸Old house borers: borate wood treatments are effective for accessible framing. For widespread infestation affecting structural lumber, contact Hawx for professional fumigation
- ▸For all wood destroying insects, replace any structurally compromised wood after confirmed elimination. Treating without replacing damaged wood leaves harborage that can support future re-infestation
🏠 Sealing Entry Points
- ▸Paint or seal ALL exterior wood surfaces because bare wood is the primary invitation for carpenter bees and wood-boring beetles
- ▸Maintain paint around all exterior wood trim, window frames, and door frames year-round
- ▸Apply metal flashing over exposed structural wood at roof eaves and deck ledgers
- ▸Keep crawl spaces dry with a vapor barrier and ensure adequate cross-ventilation. Keeping wood moisture below 15% is one of the most effective ways of preventing carpenter ants
- ▸Schedule annual professional WDI inspections to detect early infestation signs. These inspections are required for most home purchases and are essential for protecting your investment
Risks & Dangers
- ▸Collectively the most economically costly pest category for U.S. homeowners
- ▸Carpenter ants hollow out structural beams and wall voids over years
- ▸Carpenter bees tunnel into deck boards, railings, and fascia and their gallery holes also attract woodpeckers
- ▸Wood-boring beetles can destroy furniture, flooring, and antiques quietly over years
Hawx Tip: Wood Destroying Insect (WDI) reports are required for most real estate transactions. A Hawx inspection provides the thorough assessment lenders and buyers need — and gives homeowners peace of mind about their biggest investment.
Why Choose Hawx Pest Control?
DIY pest prevention goes a long way, but there are situations where a licensed professional is the only reliable solution. Here's how to know when it's time to call Hawx, and why homeowners across the country trust us to protect their most valuable investment.
When Do You Need a Professional Pest Control Company?
Not every pest sighting requires professional intervention, but knowing when DIY methods are no longer enough can save you thousands of dollars and months of frustration. Call a professional when:
| Situation | Why Professional Help Is Needed |
|---|---|
| You’ve tried DIY and it isn’t working | If you've applied store-bought products and pests keep returning, the infestation is likely deeper, deeper, or more resistant than surface-level treatments can reach. Professionals access wall voids, crawl spaces, and harborage areas that homeowners cannot. |
| You see termite signs | Termite damage is not covered by homeowner's insurance and grows silently for years. Any sign of mud tubes, hollow-sounding wood, or swarmers indoors demands immediate professional inspection and treatment. |
| You have a bed bug infestation | Bed bugs are among the hardest pests to eliminate without professional heat treatment or multi-application chemical protocols. DIY products rarely reach all life stages, especially eggs and hidden nymphs. |
| You discover a wasp, hornet, or bee colony | Removing an active colony without proper equipment and training is genuinely dangerous, especially for allergic individuals. Never attempt to remove a nest on your own. |
| You find rodents inside your home | A single mouse sighting usually signals a larger entry and population problem. Professionals identify all entry points, implement trapping, and provide exclusion work that DIY traps alone cannot replicate. |
| You identify a venomous spider | Black widows and brown recluses reproduce and establish populations that require targeted professional treatment. Do not attempt to handle or relocate venomous spiders. |
| You see signs of infestation but can’t find the source | Professionals use inspection tools, moisture meters, and trained eyes to locate pest entry points, nests, and colony centers that homeowners routinely miss. |
| Infestations recur season after season | Recurring infestations typically indicate an underlying structural issue such as a gap, moisture problem, or hidden harborage site that a professional exclusion and assessment can identify and correct permanently. |
Remember: Pests reproduce exponentially. A problem that costs a few hundred dollars to treat today can cost thousands if left for another season. When in doubt, a professional inspection is always worth it. Many infestations are caught and resolved before the homeowner would have noticed on their own.
Why Choose Hawx Pest Control?
When you invite a pest control company into your home, you're trusting them with your family's safety and your biggest financial investment. Here's what sets Hawx apart:
| What We Offer | What It Means for You |
|---|---|
| ✅ Year-Round Protection | Pests don't take breaks, and neither does Hawx. Our recurring service plans deliver scheduled treatments timed to seasonal pest activity cycles, keeping pressure on pest populations 365 days a year so infestations never get a foothold. |
| 🧑🔧 Licensed & Trained Professionals | Every Hawx technician is fully licensed, background-checked, and trained in the latest Integrated Pest Management techniques. We don’t just spray and leave. We inspect, identify, and treat the root cause. |
| 💯 Satisfaction Guarantee | If pests return between scheduled treatments, so do we at no additional charge. We don’t consider a job done until you’re completely satisfied. That’s our promise on every service. |
| 🔬 Science-Based Treatment Methods | Hawx uses proven, EPA-registered products and application methods calibrated for the specific pest, season, and environment of your home. We stay current with the latest pest management research so our treatments outperform generic approaches. |
| 🐾 Safe for Families & Pets | We use targeted treatments applied precisely where pests are active to minimize exposure to your family and pets. Our technicians follow strict safety protocols and will always advise you on any preparations or precautions needed before and after service. |
| 🏠 Comprehensive Home Protection | From termites and bed bugs to mosquitoes and rodents, Hawx handles every common household pest. One company, one plan, complete protection with no need to manage multiple vendors. |
| 📋 Detailed Reporting & Communication | After every service, you receive a full report of what was found, what was treated, and what to watch for next. Our technicians take time to answer your questions and educate you on what’s happening around your home. |
| 💵 Transparent, Fair Pricing | No surprise fees. No hidden charges. Hawx provides clear pricing upfront so you know exactly what you’re paying for before any service begins. Our plans are designed to deliver maximum value for long-term protection. |
Ready to get started?
Your pest-free home is one call away.
📞 Call (855) 739-0061 NowOr visit hawxpestcontrol.com to schedule online
Protecting families. Protecting homes. That's the Hawx promise.
✓ Same-day service available ✓ Licensed professionals ✓ Satisfaction guaranteed